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Taking out a Mortgage for a Manufactured Home

Editorial Note: The content of this article is based on the author’s opinions and recommendations alone. It has not been previewed, commissioned or otherwise endorsed by any of our network partners.

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Looking to buy a place to call home without taking on massive debt? A manufactured home may be the least expensive way to buy a house that meets your family’s needs. The average sales price of a new manufactured home was just under $75,000 in August 2017, according to the Manufactured Housing Survey. That’s less than a quarter of the median price for a new single-family home, which was $314,200 in August.

“More people are turning to manufactured housing to deliver homes that fit their needs and wants, at prices they can afford,” according to Patti Boerger, VP of Communications for the Manufactured Housing Institute. On average, manufactured homes cost about $51 per square foot — that’s nearly half the price of a traditional site-built home, according to 2015 Census data.

However, the inexpensive house often comes with an expensive loan. According to research from the CFPB, between 2001 to 2010, two-thirds (65%) of all manufactured home owners used the expensive chattel loan option to pay for their mortgage. While chattel loans provide a viable solution for buying a manufactured home, many homeowners have lower cost financing options. This is especially true for the two-thirds of manufactured homeowners who own their lot.

Manufactured, modular or mobile? What’s the difference?

Many people use the terms manufactured, modular and mobile homes interchangeably, but there are some distinctions. For a home to be a manufactured home, it must meet Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards set up by the Housing and Urban Development department (HUD) in 1976. Homes that meet the standards receive a certification called a HUD tag. HUD tags make the home eligible for a variety of financing including Federal Housing Administration (FHA) insured loans. Fabricated homes built prior to 1976 cannot be HUD certified, so the HUD department calls them mobile homes.

Modern manufactured homes can either be attached to a permanent foundation (like a concrete slab or pier footings) or a temporary foundation (such as a ground and anchor foundation). Homes attached to a temporary foundation could accurately be called mobile homes since you could move them. However, even moving a mobile home is a massive task.

Modular homes are a type of manufactured home that is delivered to the site in multiple pieces. These homes must meet the local standards of site-built houses rather than the Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards.

Despite the differences, many companies manufacture and install both manufactured and modular homes.

How to finance a manufactured home

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While taking out any mortgage is a huge undertaking, manufactured home mortgages can be especially confusing. Borrowing options for manufactured homes aren’t only limited by your credit, down payment and income qualifications. The home you buy also influences which loans are available to you.

These are the steps you’ll need to take when buying a manufactured home, according to a loan officer who specializes in manufactured-home financing.

Buying a used manufactured home

Buying a used manufactured home is a bit like buying a used car from a private seller. You can get a great deal, but you need to complete due diligence before buying.

  1. Decide whether to buy the lot: Nearly two-thirds of manufactured homeowners own the lot where their home is located. Buying both the lot and the home means you may qualify for conventional mortgages. Homebuyers who plan to rent their lot will only qualify for chattel loans.
  2. Check for the HUD tag: The home needs to have a HUD tag indicating that it meets safety standards. The tag is a metal plate that you should be able to find on the outside of the manufactured home. If you can’t find the physical HUD tag, ask the owner to request a Letter of Label Certification from the Institute for Building Technology and Safety.
  3. Check title history: Every manufactured home has a unique serial number that can be used to look into past ownership information. As a buyer, you’ll want to look into statements of location to determine whether the home has moved in the past. The exact site for searching manufactured home history varies by state. However, the most likely candidates include your state’s department of transportation, department of housing, or register of deeds websites.If you find that a home has moved from its original location, the home won’t qualify for a traditional mortgage (like an FHA, conventional, or VA loan).
  4. Compare loans options: Use the information you gathered in the previous steps and the guide below to help you determine the best loan for your situation. Whether you choose a traditional loan or a chattel loan, you can compare rates from multiple lenders to get the best deal.
  5. Property appraisal: Once you qualify for a loan, your lender will appraise your manufactured home. The lender will also send inspectors to check on the home’s foundation and confirm that it meets current standards.
  6. Close on loan: If the property meets the required standards, you may proceed with the loan closing process.
  7. Transfer title: Following the loan closing, the title will be transferred to you. At this point, you may have to convert the home from personal property to real property (more on that later). Your closing attorney or lender can help you with the conversion.

Buying new

Buying a new manufactured home means you can buy the exact home you want. It also opens up more opportunities to qualify for traditional mortgages (if you also own your lot).

  1. Find lot: Whether you plan to rent a lot or buy one, you’ll need to find a location for a home. Some people will place a new home on land they already own.
  2. Start home design process: In some cases, you may pick a manufactured home right off of a vendor’s lot, but many people choose custom designs for their homes.
  3. Determine loan options: Home manufacturers may point you toward certain lenders, but don’t be afraid to shop around. Comparing multiple lenders often yields a better deal. If you plan to buy land, you can consider using a conventional mortgage.
  4. Property assessment: Before a bank will allow you to close on a conventional loan, they will require a property assessment. This assessment will determine whether the site can hold a proper foundation.
  5. Close on loan: Once the property passes inspection, you’ll close on your home loan. If you’re taking out a conventional mortgage, your initial loan may be a construction loan, but it will convert to a mortgage once the manufacturer completes the home.
  6. Home delivered to property: After the loan closes, the manufacturer will deliver and install the home on the property.
  7. Title property: Once the home has been delivered, you’ll need to title the property. If you’ve taken out a traditional mortgage, you’ll have to title the property as real property.

Choosing the best mortgage for your manufactured home

Traditional mortgages such as FHA loans, conventional mortgages and VA loans offer financing up to 30 years with (potentially) low fixed rates. However, they also have more stringent buying criteria. Chattel loans have higher interest rates and shorter payoff periods, but the criteria for borrowing is a bit looser.

You can use the information below to determine what loan may fit your situation best.

 

Chattel Loans

FHA Loans

Conventional Mortgage

VA Loans

VA Loans for Manufactured Homes

Overall

Best for borrowers who want to buy the home only, and place it in a rented lot.

Best for borrowers with a small down payment who want to buy a manufactured home and the lot.

Best for borrowers with a large down payment who want to buy a manufactured home and the lot.

Best for military members who want to buy a manufactured home and the lot.

Best for military members who want buy a manufactured home and rent a lot.

Credit score required

Ability to pay criteria

500, but banks have minimum underwriting standards

620

Credit score standards set by lender

Credit score standards set by lender

Down payment required

5% (10% for borrowers with credit scores 500 or below)

Credit score between 500-579: 10%



Credit score at or above 580: 3.5%

5% (10% for people with thin credit)

None

5%

Interest rates

Average 6.79% in 2014 (most recent data available)



Between 0.5-5.5% higher than traditional loans

Average 4.22%

Average 4.25%

3.97%

Varies by lender

Upfront financing fee

Up to 2.25% (can be financed)

1.75% (can be financed)

None

1.25-3.3% depending on your military status, homebuying experience and down payment (can be financed)

1%

Mortgage insurance

Up to 1%

0.45-1.05%

0.5% annually

None

None

Mortgage limits

Home only: $69,678


Lot only: $23,226


Home and lot: $92,904

Generally, $294,515 for single-family units, but it varies by location, and you should check the limits in your area

Generally, $453,100

Generally $453,100

Value of home and lot

Mortgage term limits

20 years for home only



20 years for single-section home and lot



15 years for lot only



25 years for a multi-section home and lot

Up to 30 years

Up to 30 years

Up to 30 years

15 years for lot only



20 years for single-wide home



20 years for single-wide home and lot



23 years for a double-wide home



25 for a double-wide manufactured home and lot

Titling requirements

Personal Property

The house must be titled as real property, and you must own the lot where the house is located.

Must own land (or be part of a co-op), and home must be titled as real property.

The house must be titled as real property, and you must own the lot where the house is located.

Personal or real property

Foundation requirements

Foundation anchors or permanent foundation

Permanent foundation (including pier and footing)

Permanent foundation (foundation anchors may be appropriate depending on the manufacturer’s requirements)

Continuous slab or load-bearing piers and footings.

Foundation anchors or permanent foundation

Minimum size

400 square feet

400 square feet

600 square feet

None

400 square feet (single wide), 700 square feet (double-wide)

Can home move?

Yes

Only from manufacturers to permanent foundation (even if purchasing used).

Only from manufacturers to permanent foundation (even if purchasing used).

Must be permanently affixed and titled as real property.

Yes

Where to compare lenders

Manufactured Housing Institute

HUD FHA Lender Search

LendingTree mortgage comparison*

LendingTree VA mortgage comparison*

Manufactured Housing Institute (Call to ask about VA loans)

*LendingTree is MagnifyMoney’s parent company.

Personal property versus real property titling

When it comes to financing a manufactured home, one of the most important considerations is how you plan to title the home. Buyers can choose to title a manufactured home as personal property which is how you title a boat, RV or vehicle, or real property which is how you title a traditional home.

In most parts of the country, you have had a permanent foundation to title your loan as real property. Some states require you to own your lot while others allow you to title your home as real property on leased land. You can find out the exact titling requirements in your state by working with the register of deeds in your county.

How you title your property will have a tremendous effect upon your total ownership experience. These are the seven ways titling may affect your experience:

Upfront taxes: When you purchase real property you pay transfer taxes, but when you purchase personal property you pay sales tax. The sales tax rate is generally higher than the transfer tax fee. Some states have sales tax exemptions for manufactured home buyers.

Property tax rate: Real property may be taxed at a higher rate than personal property in your state. If you title as real property, you may pay higher property taxes every year you own your home.

Default process: If you choose to title your home as personal property, your lender can repossess your home if you default. The default process will be governed by the Uniform Commercial Code, so you don’t have the full rights and protection of a property owner. People who title their home as real property have the right to a full foreclosure process which may give them time to get out of default before losing their home. Foreclosure laws vary by state.

Loan modifications: People who are in danger of losing their home often look for loan modifications to make their home affordable again. The largest home loan modification program is the Making Home Affordable Program, which outlines criteria for Home Affordable Mortgage Program (HAMP) loan modifications. HAMP modifications are only available to manufactured homeowners who own their lot and home and have both classified as real property.

Rights of joint owners: Titling your home as personal property also has disadvantages if your spouse defaults on a debt. In some states, manufactured homes that are classified as personal property may be seized for a default on debt, even if the home is owned by both spouses and the default was the responsibility of just one spouse. On the other hand, homes classified as real property do not face that problem.

Borrowing options: If you title your home as personal property, you have the option to take out an FHA chattel loan, a personal loan or owner-held financing solutions. When you opt to title your home as real property you gain the option to take out FHA loans, conventional mortgages, VA loans and other government-backed mortgages. These mortgages tend to be lower cost and have more protections.

Advantages of manufactured homes

Manufactured homes are no longer the boxy trailers of a few decades ago. Buyers can now select a range of new features that are attractive to new buyers including fully-functional kitchens, open layouts and attractive roofs. These features come at about half the price per square foot of site-built homes.

Much of the cost savings come from the manufacturing process itself, which ensures that home building isn’t subject to costly weather delays, and the standardized parts make it easier to build.

In addition to lower construction costs, manufactured homeowners often have lower utility bills than site-built homeowners due to the small size of manufactured homes. Older manufactured homes are notorious for having poor energy efficiency, but manufactured homes built after 1994 are subject to current HUD energy standards for manufactured homes. Some home manufacturers are taking energy efficiency a step further by manufacturing Energy Star-certified manufactured homes which are at least 15% more efficient than manufactured houses built to code.

Disadvantages of manufactured homes

Despite the cost and energy advantages, manufactured homes have drawbacks. Manufactured homeowners who do not (or cannot) choose to title their home as real property has decreased rights if they default on their loan. When titled as personal property, manufactured homes may be repossessed or taken as part of another debt settlement suit (depending on state laws). Manufactured homeowners who don’t own their land may miss out on a wealth-building opportunity since the land may appreciate while home structures tend to depreciate in value.

Finally, the mortgages available for manufactured homes may be more limited than those for site-built homes. In particular, many manufactured homeowners have to rely on high-priced chattel loans rather than mortgages for site-built homes.

Advertiser Disclosure: The products that appear on this site may be from companies from which MagnifyMoney receives compensation. This compensation may impact how and where products appear on this site (including, for example, the order in which they appear). MagnifyMoney does not include all financial institutions or all products offered available in the marketplace.

Hannah Rounds
Hannah Rounds |

Hannah Rounds is a writer at MagnifyMoney. You can email Hannah here

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The Hidden Costs of Selling A Home

Editorial Note: The content of this article is based on the author’s opinions and recommendations alone. It has not been previewed, commissioned or otherwise endorsed by any of our network partners.

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When you decide to sell your home, you may dream of receiving an offer well above your asking price. But putting your home on the market requires you to open your wallet, which could cut into your potential profit.

While some line items probably won’t come as a surprise, you may find that there are a handful of hidden costs.

Below, we highlight those unexpected expenses and everything else you need to know about the cost of selling a house.

The hidden costs of selling a home

It’s easy to fixate on the money you expect to make as a home seller, but don’t forget the money you’ll need to cover the cost to sell your home.

A joint analysis by Thumbtack, a marketplace that connects consumers with local professional services, and real estate marketplace Zillow, found that homeowners spend nearly $21,000 on average for extra or hidden costs associated with a home sale.

Many of these expenses come before homeowners see any returns on their home sale. Money is spent in three main categories: location, home preparation and location.

Location

Your ZIP code can influence how much you pay to sell your home. Many extra costs are influenced by regional differences — like whether sellers are required to pay state or transfer taxes.

For example, if you’re in a major California metropolitan area like Los Angeles, you may pay more than double the national average in hidden costs when selling your home.

Below, we highlight 10 of the metros analyzed in the Thumbtack/Zillow study, their median home price and their average total hidden costs.

Metro Area

Median Home Price*

Average Total Hidden Costs of Selling

New York, NY

$438,900

$33,510

Los Angeles-Long Beach-Anaheim, CA

$652,700

$46,060

Chicago, IL

$224,800

$18,625

Dallas-Fort Worth, TX

$243,000

$19,350

Philadelphia, PA

$232,800

$21,496

Houston, TX

$205,700

$17,477

Washington, D.C.

$405,900

$34,640

Miami-Fort Lauderdale, FL

$283,900

$24,241

Atlanta, GA

$217,800

$18,056

Boston, MA

$ 466,000

$35,580

Source: Thumbtack and Zillow analysis, April 2019.


*As of February 2019.

Generally, selling costs correlate with the home price, so expect to pay a little more if you live in an area with a higher-than-average cost of living or one that has a lot of land to groom for sale.

Home preparation

Thumbtack’s analysis shows home sellers may spend $6,570 on average to prepare for their home sale. These costs can include staging, repairs and cleaning.

Buyers are generally expected to pay their own inspection costs; however, if you’ve lived in the home for a number of years and want to avoid any surprises, you might also consider paying for a home inspection before listing the property for sale. Inspection fees typically range from $300 to $500.

Staging is often another unavoidable expense for sellers and can cost about $1,000 on average, according to HomeAdvisor. Staging, which involves giving your home’s interior design a face-lift and removing clutter and personal items from the home, is often encouraged because it can help make the property more appealing to interested buyers.

It also helps to have great photos and vivid descriptions of the property online to help maximize exposure of the property to potential buyers. If your agent is handling the staging and online listing, keep an eye on the “wow” factors they include. Yes, a virtual tour of your house looks really cool, but it might place extra pressure on your budget.

You could potentially save hundreds on home preparation costs if you take the do-it-yourself route (DYI), but expect a bill if you outsource.

Closing costs

Closing costs are the single largest added expense of the home selling process, coming in at a median cost of $14,,281, according to Thumbtack. Closing costs include real estate agent commissions and local transfer taxes. There may be other closing costs, such as title insurance and attorney fees.

Real estate agent commissions range from 5-6% of the home price, according to Redfin. That amount is further broken down by 2.5-3% being paid to the seller’s agent and the other 2.5-3% being paid to the buyer’s agent.

The taxes you’ll pay to transfer ownership of your home to the buyer vary by state.

Other closing costs include title search and title insurance to verify that you currently own the home free and clear and there are no claims against it that can derail the sale. The cost of title insurance varies by loan amount, location and title company, but can go as high as $2,000.

If you live in a state that requires an attorney to be present at the mortgage closing, the fee for their services can range from $100 to $1,500.

There are also escrow fees to factor in if you’re in a state that doesn’t require an attorney. The cost varies and is usually split the homebuyer and seller.

If you have time to invest, you could try listing the home for sale by owner to eliminate commission fees. One caveat: Selling your home on your own is a more complicated approach to home selling and can be more difficult for those with little or no experience.

Other home selling costs to consider

Now that you have an understanding of the costs that may get overlooked, remember to budget for the below expenses as you prepare to sell your home.

Utilities

It’s important that you make room in your budget to keep the utilities — electricity and water — on until the property is sold. (This is in addition to budgeting for utilities in your new home.) Keeping these services active can help you sell your home since potential buyers won’t bother fumbling through a cold, dark property to look around. It may also prevent your home from facing other issues like mold during the humid summertime or trespassers.

Be sure to have all of your utilities running on the buyer’s final walk-through of the home, then turn everything off on closing day and pay any remaining account balances.

Homeowners insurance

Budget to pay for homeowners insurance on the home you’re selling as well as your new home. You’ll still need to ensure coverage of your old property until the sale is finalized. Check the terms first, as your homeowners insurance policy might not apply to a vacant home. If that’s the case, you can ask to pay for a rider — an add-on to your insurance policy — for the vacancy period.

Capital gains tax

If you could make more than $250,000 on the home’s sale (or $500,000 if you’re married and filing jointly), take a look at the rules on capital gains tax. If your proceeds are less than the applicable amount after subtracting selling costs, you’ll avoid the tax. However, if you don’t qualify for any of the exceptions, the gains above those thresholds could be subject to a 15% capital gains tax, or higher. Consult your tax professional for more information.

How to save money when selling your home

Keep the following tips in mind when you decide to put your home on the market:

  • Shop around and negotiate. Don’t settle on the first companies and professionals you come across. Comparison shop for your real estate agent, home inspector, closing attorney, photographer, etc. It could also work in your favor to try negotiating on the fees they charge to save even more.
  • Choose your selling time carefully. The best time to sell your home is during the spring and summer months. If you wait until the colder months to sell, there may not be as much competition for your home.
  • DIY as much as possible. Anything you can do on your own to spruce up your home — landscaping, painting, minor repairs, staging — can help you cut back on the money you’ll need to spend to get your home sold.

The bottom line

There are several upfront costs to consider when selling your home, but planning ahead can help you possibly reduce some of those costs and not feel as financially strained.

List each cost you’re expecting to pay and calculate how they might affect the profit you’d make on the home sale and your household’s overall financial picture. If you’re unsure of your costs, try using a sale proceeds calculator to get a ballpark estimate of your potential selling costs. Be sure to also consult a real estate agent.

If you’re starting from scratch on your next home, here’s what you need to know about the cost to build a house.

Advertiser Disclosure: The products that appear on this site may be from companies from which MagnifyMoney receives compensation. This compensation may impact how and where products appear on this site (including, for example, the order in which they appear). MagnifyMoney does not include all financial institutions or all products offered available in the marketplace.

Crissinda Ponder
Crissinda Ponder |

Crissinda Ponder is a writer at MagnifyMoney. You can email Crissinda here

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Mortgage

When Is the Best Time to Buy a House?

Editorial Note: The content of this article is based on the author’s opinions and recommendations alone. It has not been previewed, commissioned or otherwise endorsed by any of our network partners.

Fall may be the best time to look for a house
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Timing a new home purchase can be tricky. Should you start looking in the spring or in the summer? Should you wait for lower interest rates, or make an offer on a house you love even though the price is higher than what you budgeted? These are a few questions you may be pondering if you’re considering buying a house.

It’s common to look for cues about the best time to buy from the local housing economy or from what friends and real estate agents say, but the answer often lies closer to home — with an honest look at your personal finances. We’ll delve into some facts and figures to help you answer the question: When is the best time to buy a house?

The best time to buy a house is when you’re financially ready

Your kitchen table may be covered with listings of all the homes you’re interested in, detailed analyses of mortgage interest rate trends, historic home price appreciation and a plethora of other technical financial data about the timing of a home purchase. None of that information will matter if you aren’t financially ready to buy a home.

So how do know when you’re financially ready to buy your home? We’ve come up with five sings to help you determine if your homebuying timing is right.

1. You know your payment comfort zone

Before you ever speak to a loan officer, do some soul searching about your payment comfort zone — that is, how much you can comfortably afford to spend on a monthly mortgage payment alongside other regular expenses. This might be an unfamiliar concept, but taking the time to seriously consider your payment comfort zone may result in a different monthly payment target than the “maximum qualifying” number you’ll receive from a lender.

The Consumer Finance Protection Bureau considers 43% to be the maximum debt-to-income ratio (DTI) to meet the definition of a “qualified mortgage” — the stamp of approval from the regulatory powers that you’ll be able to afford your mortgage. Just multiply your monthly income by .43 and you’ll arrive at the government recommended total debt number. For example, if you earn $6,000 per month, your total debt including your monthly mortgage payment shouldn’t be more than $2,580. But is that really your payment comfort zone?

Start by asking yourself questions like how much do you take home every month after health insurance, retirement savings, local and federal taxes and Social Security deductions? What about your gym membership, the kids’ karate classes and the new organic food regimen that just pushed your grocery budget from $400 per month to $600?

When you start subtracting the realities of your month-to-month budget from your take-home pay, $2,580 of mortgage and other debt may not leave you much breathing room for a sudden pipe burst in a bathroom, or an air conditioner that takes its last breath on the hottest day of the summer.

Once you’ve worked the numbers backward from all of your monthly expenses — not just the ones the lender uses to get you preapproved for a mortgage — you’ll have an honest idea of what you can comfortably afford.

Here’s a side-by-side review of the money left over from a $6,000 monthly income when considering your organic fruit diet, martial artist kids and your monthly commitment to fitness, assuming you take home about 75% of your before-tax income.

Money left over just looking at 43% DTIMoney leftover after expense reality check
$6,000 before tax income$4,500 take-home pay
($2,580) suggested expenses for 43% DTI($600) (gym membership/karate/organic grocery markup)
($2,580) suggested by 43% DTI
$3,420 extra income suggested by lending guidelines$1,320 actual leftover real-life income

If your monthly income before taxes is $6,000 and you buy a house using the 43% rule based on your real life take home pay and additional expenses, you’ll have $1320 left over every month for gas, groceries, utility and all other bills.

Make sure that’s enough cushion for your month-to-month expenses, and if it’s not, start scaling back your monthly payment cushion until you’ve got more breathing room in your monthly budget to comfortably cover your day-to-day spending and other obligations.

2. You know your credit score and it’s as high as possible

Besides your DTI ratio, your credit score is the most important factor in getting you approved for and snagging the best rate on a mortgage. You’ll want to get your credit in good shape before you start shopping for a mortgage.

Start by checking your credit reports for errors because mistakes could be dragging your score down. You’ll want to initiate any disputes to correct errors at least six months before you shop for a mortgage, because lenders will require you to pause any disputes in order to get your mortgage approved.

Next, review your credit scores and the factors that may be bringing them down. (Find them at https://my.lendingtree.com.) While it does take time to improve your score, one way to boost it quickly is to pay down your credit balances. This will improve your utilization ratio, or the amount of credit you’re using compared to the amount of credit available to you. Try to do this at least three to four months before you apply for a mortgage so the credit bureaus have time to reflect any payments you’ve made. And focus on making all your credit payments on time.

3. You have your down payment and emergency fund saved

When you were in the process of determining your payment comfort zone, you probably spent some time crunching down payment numbers. Generally, the more you put down, the lower your overall payment will be.

A 20% down payment will help you avoid mortgage insurance on a conventional loan, but even if you don’t have that much saved, every extra 5% down will save you money. Mortgage insurance (also called private mortgage insurance or PMI) protects lenders against losses if you default on your loan. The less you put down, the more PMI you pay monthly on a conventional mortgage.

The table below illustrates the impact every additional 5% down makes on a $200,000 house if you have a 760 credit score and take out a 30-year fixed rate of 4.25% on a conventional loan in Arizona.

Down paymentLoan amountMonthly mortgage insuranceTotal monthly PIMI (Principal/interest/mortgage insurance)
5%$190,000$193.17$1,127.86
10%$180,000$130.50$1,015.99
15%$170,000$66.58$902.88
20%$160,000$0$787.10

In addition to your down payment, financial planners often recommend having three to six months’ worth of basic expenses in an emergency fund. Lenders also like to see extra money in the bank so they know you have the funds on hand to make extra payments or cover unexpected home repair expenses.

4. Your job is stable

It’s easiest to qualify for a mortgage if you have a salaried job or a full-time hourly position. If you have a position that only has a temporary base pay that will end in the near future, you may have a hard time getting approved. If you’ve been in a commissioned or self-employed position for at least two years and show enough income to qualify on your tax returns, then this is a good time to buy.

5. You plan to stay in your current location for 5-7 years

You may hear the expression buying a home is one of the biggest investments you’ll make. The most disciplined investors also talk about looking at the long term versus the short term.

When it comes to real estate, the “5-year home sale rule” refers to the fact that you have a better chance of recouping the cost of buying a home if you stay in the home for at least five years. By that time, you’ll have made 60 mortgage payments, and in most cases, you’ll see home values in your area gradually rise.

The combination of these factors usually results in a sweet spot for reselling after five years. This is important because as a home seller, you’ll be paying all of the real estate commissions for the services agents provide to sell your home. Those fees can be as high as 6% or more, and that’s money that comes off the top of the profit you make.

The example below shows how the 5-year rule works. It assumes you put down 5% on a $250,000 home with mortgage rate of 4.25%, the market appreciates 6% per year for the next five years (it has averaged 7-8% per year since 2007-08), and selling costs total 8%.

Year since purchaseHome value at 6% annual appreciation*Principal balanceTotal equitySelling costs 8%Net profit at sale
1$265,000$233,496.07$31,503.93$21,200$10,303.93
2$280,900$229,318.61$51,581.39$22,472$29,109.39
3$297,754$224,960.12$72,793.88$23,820.32$48,973.56
4$315,619$220,412.74$95,206.26$25,249.52$69,956.74
5$334,556$215,668.28$118,887.72$26,764.48$92,123.24
*Average appreciation rate since the 2007-08 financial crisis

It’s best to buy when rates are heading down

It’s impossible to know exactly what interest rates are doing, but if you see a lot of news about rates dropping, it’s worth it to get a payment quote. From December 2018 to August 2019, mortgage rates offered for many mortgage programs dropped nearly one percentage point, which has a huge impact not only on your monthly payment, but on how much interest you pay over the life of the loan.

We’ll look at how a one percentage point reduction in the interest rate can make a monthly payment difference for a $150,000, $250,000 and $350,000 loan. Using the 5-year rule, we’ll also look at how much extra equity and interest savings you realize by the time you make your 60th payment (12 months of payments x 5 years = 60 payments).

Loan amountMonthly payment at 4.75%Monthly payment at 3.75%Monthly payment savingsInterest savings over 5 years at 3.75%Extra equity at 5 years
$150,000$782.47$694.67$87.80$7,399.24$2,131.38
$250,000$1,304.12$1,157.79$146.35$12,331.08$3,552.30
$350,000$1,825.77$1,620.90$204.87$17,264.88$4,973.22

The bigger the loan amount, the more the impact on your monthly payment savings, total interest costs and equity build up. This makes shopping around for a mortgage and locking in a rate when you find the best deal even more important.

It’s best to buy when home prices are leveling off

The price you pay is just as important as the interest rate when it comes to buying. When home prices level off or rise at a slower pace, sellers tend to put their houses on the market at a more rapid pace, as they worry they may miss out on getting top dollar if prices stall out.

That’s good news if you’re a buyer, because more houses for sales may mean lower prices. Sellers may also consider contributing toward your closing costs or help you buy discount points to get a lower rate. This is also known as a “buyer’s market,” because it tends to be more advantageous to buyers than sellers.

Sales price also affects how much money you need to put down, so getting the best price will help you leave some of that down payment money in the bank to build up your emergency fund even further. Here’s an example of the effects of a 5% difference in price on your down payment, and assuming the seller is willing to pay 3% of your closing costs.

Sales price5% down payment10% down payment3% seller paid costs
$200,000$10,000$20,000$6,000
$210,000$10,500$21,000$6,300
$220,000$11,000$22,000$6,600

If you can buy a home for $200,000 versus $220,000, you’ll save $1,000 in down payment (assuming you’re putting 5% down), and the seller can potentially pay $6,000 in closing costs. The most common signs that the market is turning in your favor are “For Sale” signs. If you start seeing more of them popping up in your area or in a neighborhood you’ve had your eye on for a while, chances are you’re entering a buyer’s market.

The best times of the year to buy a home

Spring and summer are the most popular times to buy. Summer can be especially expensive for families to buy because sellers know there is pressure to find something and get settled before the start of the school year. Conversely, fall and winter are slower seasons for home sales. As a buyer, there are some months and even days when you might be able to save a bundle of cash if you’re able to make an offer and close during unpopular selling months.

The October homebuying advantage

October consistently ranks in the top three months for buyers, according to an analysis by ATTOM Data Solutions that examines dates from 2011 to 2018 during which sellers were least likely to charge a premium for single-family homes and condos. During this time, sellers are likely to accept premiums that are one-half to two-thirds lower than the highest premium months of the year (March to July).

With kids back in the full swing of school, sellers lose a big pool of prospective buyers, giving you an advantage as a prospective homebuyer.

December is the next best month for buying power

While many people are in the thick of holiday events and get togethers, homebuying may be the furthest thing from their minds. Sellers who need to sell in December will often give buyers extra motivation to consider their homes during the holiday season, and buyers prepared to forgo a cocktail party or two may be rewarded with substantial benefits.

Ringing in the new year with a cheaper home in January

If your New Year’s resolution includes home ownership, January may be a great month to look as well, according to ATTOM’s data. While most people are signing up for gym memberships, focusing on house hunting may save thousands of dollars in home costs instead of inches off your waistline.

Final thoughts about timing a home purchase

The good thing about home prices and interest rates is that they tend to move slowly, giving you time to prepare yourself for the homebuying journey. In order to take advantage of deals to buy a house, you need to have your financial house in the best shape possible.

Not only will you potentially save money with a lower rate or price on the home you buy, but the loan approval process will be much easier if you buy within your means and are able to demonstrate strong credit scores, solid income and plenty of money in the bank.

This article contains links to LendingTree, our parent company.

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Denny Ceizyk
Denny Ceizyk |

Denny Ceizyk is a writer at MagnifyMoney. You can email Denny here

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